Berluti, the LVMH-owned men’s tailoring brand, announced designer Haider Ackermann as its new creative director today—an unusual choice, as the New York Times fashion critic Vanessa Friedman notes. The Colombia-born, Paris-based designer debuted his thriving men’s business just three years ago, a full decade after his cult-loved, critically acclaimed women’s line (Tilda Swinton’s a fan) first launched. “Everyone was expecting me to do women’s wear, so I wanted to do something else,” Ackermann told Friedman. “I have another story to tell.”
Like his womenswear collection, Ackermann’s menswear is a bit romantic. Rich colors (see: Kanye’s favorite red velvet bomber), silky fabrics, and drapey silhouettes are signatures. That said, he can also do a crotch-tight leather pant like nobody’s business. Berluti is also known for leather—and for epitomizing luxury in the menswear business. A Berluti suit or coat, for example, will cost you upwards of $4,000. A pair of boots, well over $2,000. And they will be worth it. Well, that’s the fashion editor’s point of view, anyway.
“I don’t want to make men beautiful or handsome,” Ackermann told Friedman. “I want to create attitude.” Ackermann-level attitude applied to some insane Berluti craftsmanship, with a dash of leather thrown in for good measure? Sounds like a formula for great clothes to us. We can’t wait to see what the designer comes up with when he presents his first collection at Paris Fashion Week in January. It'll be a new beginning for a new year.