Travel

GQ City Guide: Brighton

An up and coming foodie mecca, Brighton has so much more to offer than rock candy
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Easter weekend is upon us, four glorious days of freedom. So what to do with it? If you didn't get round to booking that luxury ski chalet or three nights in Monte Carlo, the British seaside beckons - and nowhere does it more stylishly than Brighton. If you're planning a getaway to the briny beaches of London-on-sea, and want to fill it with unadulterated fun, cultural soul-soothing, beautiful boutiques and some seriously good food, we have all the tips to make your Brighton break the very best...

Where to stay

Brighton Harbour Hotel

This new opening in 2016 is a charmingly sophisticated addition to Brighton’s seafront. Every room boasts elegant, contemporary styling, with many courting those much sought after sea views. Dine on local seafood at The Jetty, or while away an evening at The HarBAR, the hotel’s award winning cocktail bar. If you’ve over indulged, make a visit to the remarkably well equipped gym (no excuses), while those looking for plentiful pampering are in for a treat: Brighton Harbour Hotel is home to its very own luxury spa, and has plans to open a rooftop pool later this year.

Brighton Harbour Hotel, 64 King's Rd, Brighton BN1 1NA via

Brighton Hilton Metropole

You simply can’t beat a view of the West Pier over breakfast. The Metropole hotel is a flashback to Brighton’s Victorian seaside hey-day – with period details in tact, eating in the 1890 is a time-warp treat. The hotel is also home to The Salt Room one of the brightest stars in Brighton’s up and coming culinary galaxy.

Brighton Hilton Metropole, Kings Road, Brighton, BN1 2FU

Artist Residence

A stay in a Brighton hotel should be characterised by the quirky yet effortlessly cool. Artist Residence, a boutique hotel in a Regency Square townhouse is all this with bells on. A rustic décor is electrified by kooky, well put together details. Each room is individually designed, with a unique character as eclectic and exciting as the city.

Artist Residence, 33 Regency Square, Brighton, BN1 2GG

The Grand

If you want a seriously luxurious hotel for your weekend away, The Grand Hotel is your bag. It certainly does what it says on the tin: Italian influenced architecture boasts Rococo columned hallways and beautifully indulgent rooms. If you’ve had enough of the seaside, an exquisite spa will bring some much needed relaxation to your long weekend.

The Grand Hotel Brighton, 97-99 King's Road, Brighton, BN1 2FW

Where to eat lunch

Food For Friends

If vegetarian food means little more to you than a side salad and an empty stomach, a trip to this gourmet meat-free Brighton institution will blow your little carnivorous mind. For over 35 years, Food For Friends has been serving up refined, satisfying and devastatingly tasty vegetarian fare. Open up your palette to less that expected flavour combinations and you’ll be rewarded: the Jerusalem artichoke fritters are served with extraordinary turnip (yes, turnip) gyoza, along with pistachio and celeriac puree, braised leeks and a spiced plum sauce. Think tofu is just, well, tofu? One bite of the ridiculously fluffy, Mirin-infused crispy tofu with sweet chilli sauce will hail your unadulterated bean curd conversion.

Food For Friends, 17-18 Prince Albert St, Brighton BN1 1HF

Patterns

Fancy a gin and tonic and a gourmet hotdog to chase away a hard day's work, overlooking Brighton pier? At Patterns, a bar and club on the seafront, you can do just that. The 'Dog Haus' offers a bulging menu full of takes on the classic hot dog, such as the Hot Chilli: a beef chilli frank topped with beef chilli, cheddar cheese, jalapeños and sour cream, as well as a little extra length. On weekends, pair a hotdog with unlimited prosecco or Bloody Mary's for just £15. That's got to be the best bargain in Brighton.

10 Marine Parade BN2 via Patterns Brighton

Chilli Pickle

Chilli Pickle is making moves on the Indian culinary scene in Brighton, moving British perception of the cuisine out of the korma-and-vindaloo confines of weekend takeaways and into your any-day lunch. It serves Pao, freshly baked filled buns (a Goan favourite) for a light lunch or, if you’re hungry, go all out with a King Thali: one of its fragrant curried dishes accompanied by a plethora of delicacies including cauliflower pakora, riatta, dokla, wonderberry pickle and a mango and pistachio rice pudding to finish. Chilli Pickle also offers a Sunday brunch menu. The ginger and cumin spiced Bloody Mary is a humdinger of a start to your morning.

Chilli Pickle, 17 Jubilee Street, Brighton, BN1 1GE

The Salt Room

Fast becoming one of Brighton’s most celebrated restaurants, you certainly can’t beat The Salt Room for location. Perched overlooking the West Pier, directly on the seafront, the restaurant's food is pretty remarkable too. The lemon sole served with bok choi, seaweed and lime will make for a zingy accompaniment to your seaside recess. Book you table at lunchtime to make the most of the fabulous views.

The Salt Room, 106 King's Rd, Brighton, BN1 2FA

Fish and chips on the beach
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Brighton is fast becoming a foody capital but, when the sun is shining, you just can’t beat a box of fish and chips on your lap on the beach, looking out to sea and fighting off seagulls. Grab some from the Big Fish Trading Co. at the entrance to the Pier (they’ll give you extra crispy bits if you ask nicely) and settle down for some unbridled nostalgia.

Big Fish Trading Co., Brighton Pier, Brighton, BN2 1TW

Where to play the tourist

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The Royal Pavilion

A must is a visit to the legendary folly of one of England’s greatest dandies. The Prince Regent, later George IV, instructed architect John Nash to rebuild the Royal Pavilion in Brighton in the style of an oriental fantasy palace. An extravagant Regency homage to all things of the exotic East, George’s magnificent creation is still open to visitors today. Wander round the gardens to explore the remarkable domed facade but make sure you head inside too, as the interiors are stupendous – we’d say look out for the Banqueting Hall’s 30 foot high, one ton chandelier suspended from the ceiling by a magnificent silver dragon, but you can’t exactly miss it. This is no boring crusty stately home for a rainy day – George IV’s vision is as eye-wateringly ostentatiously glamorous as it gets, and you might just pick up an interior décor tip or two.

The Royal Pavillion, 4/5 Pavilion Buildings, Brighton, BN1 1EE

British Airways i360

Brighton Pier is great, but don’t you find it’s a bit, well, horizontal? If you like your sea views with a bit of height, the i360 – opened in August last year – provides panoramic views of Brighton, Hove and the English Channel from a dizzying height of 450 feet. Popping up in place of the sorely lamented West Pier, this is a firmly 21st century replacement - think the London Eye significantly more room to wander and even more water.

British Airways i360, 129 King's Rd, Brighton BN1 2FA

Lagoon Watersports

If you find yourself hitting Brighton during the glorious English summer why not go for more than a paddle? Hove Lagoon & Brighton Marina Watersports offer a variety of seaside-savouring watersports, including wakeboarding, sailing, windsurfing, kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding (for those who insist on paddle) and even powerboat trips along the Sussex coastline for thrill seekers with a penchant for natural beauty.

Lagoon Watersports, 6 Western Concourse, Brighton, East Sussex BN2 5UP

Brighton Pier

You can’t ignore the draw of some good old fashioned fun and Brighton does this better than anywhere else. Amble down the pier for ice cream, rollercoasters, Wurlitzers, a haunted house, crab sticks, even more fish and chips, and an amusement arcade to pillage your loose change. You’re a grown man but don’t try and tell us you don’t like candy floss.

Brighton Pier, Madeira Dr, Brighton, BN2 1TW

Where to shop for menswear

Badger

This Bond Street boutique (not that Bond Street) is a haven of your favourite established premium brands. Covering comfortable classics from Scotch & Soda, Farah and Ben Sherman alongside up and coming brands such as Realm & Empire, Badger also dips its toes in the luxury of Sanders & Sanders, shoemakers to none other than Daniel Craig in his Bond turn in Spectre.

Badger, 25-26 Bond St, North Laine, Brighton, BN1 1RD

Thread

This brightly-coloured, characterful boutique is a joy. An echo of the individuality and vibrancy of the city, Thread ensures that you’re never more than a foot away from from an ambitious pattern or enthusiastic colourway. Featuring Fjallraven, La Paz and their their own tropically influenced sister brand tuktuk – a Brighton-born wonder.

Thread, Dukes Lane, Brighton, BN1 1BG

Peggs & Son

Peggs & Son’s duplicate boutiques straddle the popular Duke Street, and stock contemporary utilitarian styles. A huge range of brands are represented under the two rooves, including daywear from Oliver Spencer, Our Legacy and Universal Works with footwear situated across the way courtesy of Red Wing and Grenson.

Peggs & Son, 39 Duke Street, Brighton, BN1 1AG

Where to shop for everything else

Abode

Situated on Kensington Gardens among the technicolour retail cacophony of the North Laines is this cool, calm and collected independent homeware boutique. Featuring wares from Scandinavian design legends Marimekko, lighting from Tierlantijn, and handmade embroidered furnishings from Parisian brand Rouge de Rhin, contemporary styling is at hand in this pleasantly eclectic unpretentious gem.

Abode, 32 Kensington Gardens, Brighton BN1 4AL

Resident

Record stores have never exactly departed from Brighton, but the vinyl revival has beyond bolstered love for gramophone-ready music. Resident, also on Kensington Gardens, has been going strong since 2004, courtesy of a passionate and knowledgeable team. Find classics alongside obscure gems, with enthusiastic handwritten recommendations on display. For nineties children who believe the CD revival hype, pick from a healthy selection of compact discs as well as plentiful polyvinyl.

Resident, 27-28 Kensington Gardens, north laine, Brighton BN1 4AL

Snoopers Paradise

The North Laines is a veritable heaven for the incurable shopper – ones with atypical tastes are particularly welcome. The indisputable highlight of this bazaar-laden mecca is Snoopers Paradise, 7000 square feet featuring hundreds of antique and vintage stalls all under one labyrinthine roof. From comic books to vintage clothing, leather suitcases to seriously retro Star Wars memorabilia, this is a collector’s nirvana. Happy hunting.

Snoopers Paradise, 7 Kensington Gardens, North Laine, Brighton, BN1 4AL

Where to get your grooming fix

Franco’s Barbers

If you’re in need of some sprucing up on your weekend away, Franco’s Barbers is a local favourite. The eponymous Franco, the shop’s Master Barber, brings over 25 years experience to his Old Lanes shop. Indulge in a traditional wet shave in this jovial and suitably quirky setting for a weekend pampering experience with character.

Franco’s Barbers, 20 Prince Albert St, Brighton BN1 1HF

Jake Berry Barber & Shop

For razor sharp cuts and infallible quiffs in a very stylish setting, make your way to stylist Jake Berry’s shop in the South Lanes. A light, contemporary, neatly designed space makes for a relaxing environment in which to hone your haircut into slick perfection.

Jake Berry Barber & Shop, 59A Ship St, Brighton BN1 1AE

Harbour Spa

The piece de resistance at the Brighton Harbour Hotel is found below ground. Tucked away below the hustle and bustle of the city are the hotel’s sprawling spa facilities. Six treatment rooms offer ESPA facials and body treatments, hot stone massages, aromatherapy, alternative holistic therapies and even a portfolio of treatments specifically designed for men. The Spa is soon to open two generously-sized pools, and even deeper underground you’ll find The Grotto, a steamy oasis of hot tubs, a sauna, a steam room and relaxation spaces.

Harbour Spa, 64 King's Rd, Brighton BN1 1NA via

Where to get a cocktail

The HarBAR

This award-winning new bar has got you covered both night and day. Open from noon, you can take in the sea views over a light afternoon tipple or one of HarBAR’s fresh low calorie juices and smoothies. After dark, work your way through their extensive cocktail list, featuring both classics and fragrant original offerings. Can’t make up your mind? Take a spin on the Dealer’s Choice and get a cocktail tailored to your favourite ingredients.

The HarBAR, 64 King's Rd, Brighton BN1 1NA via

Plateau

A lively bar offering an extensive selection of beers and a considered, purist cocktail list. Try the “Periodista” for a Latin, rum-induced kick to your hazy spring evening, or listen to Johan, the award winning head bartender, who cites his favourite as the rich and dark and complex whisky-based “de la louisiane” – a must-try for anyone who likes their cocktails with a hint of prohibition.

Plateau, 1 Bartholow Mews, Brighton, BN1 1HG

The Cocktail Shack

Connected to the aforementioned Artist Residence, The Cocktail Shack boasts a pun-filled, inventive, frequently rotating cocktail menu (“Sauvignon Private Ryan” and “Cachaca In The Rye” are two favourites). This is a Tiki bar with style.

The Cocktail Shack, 34 Regency Square, Brighton, BN1 2GG

Where to get a beer

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The Prince Albert

If it’s the alternative music scene that has brought you to Brighton, you need to have The Prince Albert on your radar. The live music is the pub’s biggest draw, but good food and good beer keeps you coming back. You also can’t miss it – the three storey mural of musical legends from Dusty Springfield to Ian Dury, which is fast becoming an attraction in its own right.

The Prince Albert, 48 Trafalgar St, Brighton, BN1 4ED

The Lion & Lobster

A cosy, traditional pub characterised by its many a nook and cranny: situated in a quieter bit of town, this is the perfect spot for a relaxing, much-needed beer. The food is home cooked using locally sourced ingredients, with a menu that is a definite upgrade from your average pub food. Be careful, you could easily soak in the eclectic décor in comfort for many hours.

The Lion & Lobster, 24 Sillwood Street, Brighton, BN1 2PS

Tempest Inn

The Tempest Inn is a seafront pub with a difference. The Shakespearean-themed watering hole is comprised of a maze of over a dozen caves, warmly lit by candles and frequently serenaded by live performance. Great seafood, including the Crab Boil sharing pot seals the deal.

Tempest Inn, 159-161 King's Road, Brighton, BN1 1NB

Where to eat dinner

The Jetty

There’s nothing like a day of relishing (or braving) the salty sea air to tickle one’s pescatarian preferences. At this seafront restaurant, all eyes are on the fish, with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. The seared scallops are a delight, with a smoked cauliflower puree and raisin jam showing off the sweeter notes of the meat. There’s room to indulge yourself at The Jetty - the South Coast lobster shows off the best of Britain’s sea fare – but if you have comfort food in your sights, fish and chips is also on the cards. Dessert wine lovers, listen up. With the guidance of its sister bar, the HarBAR (see below), The Jetty serves Chateau d’Yquem 2003, one of the most revered sweet wines in existence, by the glass. A night doesn’t end much better, does it?

The Jetty, 64 King's Rd, Brighton BN1 1NA via

The Coal Shed

For all of Brighton’s vegetarian credentials, one of the jewels in its foodie crown is this fabulous steak restaurant. A mouthwatering daily selection of sharing cuts are presented by highly knowledgable staff, with all steaks dry-aged for at least 35 days, and served with a choice of twelve sides. Yes, twelve. Choose by the weight and the cut, and your steak is returned to you with a glorious smokiness imbued by their Josper charcoal grill. The Coal Shed’s prowess extends beyond the beef, with a well-loved selection of starters and mains demonstrating culinary enthusiasm across the board. Start your meal with the charred octopus, ancho potato, padron peppers, squid ink aioli for a meaty approach to sea fare, and finish it off with a refreshing dose of roasted almond panna cotta and poached rhubarb.

The Coal Shed, 8 Boyce's St, Brighton BN1 1AN

Curry Leaf Café

There’s no better way to kick off the Friday night of your long weekend than with a curry. The Curry Leaf Café, a South Indian streetfood joint in the Laines is an excellent choice. Brighton’s veggie-centric clientele are catered for with plentiful delicacies including an indulgent Amaravati Vankaya Koora (aubergines in a tamarind, ginger and green chilli spiced coconut sauce). If you’re a carnivore, the Guineafowl Chettinad starter is exceptional, sumptuously most game legs marinated in a mouth-watering paste of star anise, fennel and cardamom. You can go back for more as the dish is featured in the Tandoori platter – you’ll be very tempted.

Curry Leaf Café, 60 Ship Street, Brighton, BN1 1AE

The Gingerman

A sophisticated, intimate and relaxed evening beckons at The Gingerman, with fantastically fine food to boot. Every meal is proceeded by a daily amuse bouche, and each dish that follows is an exquisite flavours construction, locally sourced and simply gorgeous. The Newhaven landed cod – featuring a fillet and a“fish finger” – served with Romanesco cauliflower, shallot, bacon, peas and a fish velouté is stunning. Make sure you don’t fill up too early – The Gingerman’s puddings are worth the wait. The heavenly fluffy banana soufflé with peanut ice cream is worth a weekly trip to the coast.
The Gingerman, 21a Norfolk Square, Brighton, BN1 2PD

Flank

Chef Tom Griffiths is going places. Flank is currently in its pop-up form, now fulfilling a residency at The Cow in Seven Dials. Experimental and extraordinary, Tom’s food has British produce at its heart. It’s not all about meat – the cauliflower trio is incredible – but what Tom does with an animal is comething to behold: his cured duck ham is a revelation. Tom offers a nose-to-tail approach to the animal, extoling the virtue of forgotten cuts: the glazed beef short rib, served with bone marrow ketchup is a melt in the mouth experience. Never mind just Brighton’s food scene, if you want to experience the cutting edge of British cuisine, you can’t get a finer choice than Flank. Flank, residency at The Cow, 95-97 Dyke Road, Seven Dials, Brighton, BN1 3JE

Head to Visit Brighton to discover more of the city's secrets